Stitched buttonhole



Nov. 15, 1932. J. PIKUL STITCHED BUTTONHOLE Filed July 17, 1951- \nve nTor Joseph Pi Ku| WW WRW AT Tys.

- 1on one face of the .holes and it has for its structed that the stitches and the width of the stitching,

tending from the slitof 'to the buttonhole on vention to provide an Patented Nov. 15, 1932 UNITED STATES gosnrn PIKUL, or TROY, NEW VYORK, A momma COMPANY, or BOSTON, MASSA SSIGNOR TO THE REECE. BUTTON HOLE CHUSETTS, A. CORPORATION 01 STITCHED BUTTONHQLE Application filed July 17, 1931. Serial No. 5 51.397.

.' Thisfinvention relates to stitched buttonprincipal object to provide a novel buttonhole which is soconwill have a bight of'a less width on one side of the fabric than on the other. r I

"In the stitching of a buttonhole on an ordinary buttonhole sewing machine the penetrating thrusts of the needle are usually made alternately along the line of the buttonhole slit and through the work at a distance back from the slit. In other words, the alternate thrusts of the needle will be along the line of the buttonhole slit while the other thrusts'will be through the work at a-distance back from the slit. As a result when the loopsof thread are concatenated in forming the stitching a portion of each thread loopwill appear on both faces of the fabric extending fromthe slit-to a'point where the needle pierced the fabric back from the slit, or as it is sometimes referred to, the bight. is the same on both faces of the fabric.

In the stitching of a buttonhole the stitches are usually so concatenated that the interlocking of the threads appears on the front face of the fabric to-form what is known as the purl, it producing a finished appearance to the face of the buttonhole. On the back side-of the fabric, however, the portions of the stitchesthat are visible present parallel threads or thread portions exthe buttonhole back to the points where the needle was thrust through the fabric. This arrangement of threads does not give the finishedappearance the back of the goods that the purl .does on the front of the goods.

It. is one ofthe objects of my present inimproved stitched buttonhole which is so made that the-buttonhole stitches will have a bightof less width fabric than on the other and be on the back face of the fabric. .7 g

In carrying out my, invention the portions of theloops of thread whichpass through the goods back from the buttonhole slit are thereby improving the appearance of the buttonhole. v

In order to invention'I have illustrated in thedrawing a selected embodiment thereof which will now be described after which the novel features will be claims.

' Fig. 1' is a fragmentary perspective and somewhat diagrammatic view greatly enlarged, illustrating a portion of a buttonhole made in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged cross-section through a piece of goods having a stitched buttonhole embodying my invention Fig. 3 is a somewhat diagrammatic view illustrating the front of a buttonhole embodying my invention;

1g. 4 is a similar view illustrating the back face of said buttonhole;

In the drawing 1 indicates the work in which the buttonhole is formed -and2 is the buttonhole slit. The buttonhole stitch shown in Fig. lis formed with two threads indicated at 3 and 4 respectively,'and is the type of stitch which would be made with a wellknown buttonhole sewing machinewhich is equipped with a needle operatingfrom above the work and loopers operating beneath the worlgone of the loopers being threaded. The thread 3 is the thread carried by the needle while the thread 4 is the looper thread. 1 From at a lesser distance pointed out in the appended preferably the bight of lesser width will i of the fabric is correspondingly reduced 5 i to give an understanding of the the thread 8 there is formed a plurality of thread loops 5 which extend through the buttonhole slit 2 and also a series of loops 6 which extend through the goods 1 from the back face. The loops 5 and 6 are not only concatenated with each other but also with loops 7 of the looper thread 4. 7

Each loop 5 of the thread 3 extends through a loop 6 of said thread 3 on the front face of the fabric and each loop 6 extends through a loop 7 of the thread 4 while each loop 7 passes through one of the loops 5 of the thread 3. This manner of interlocking or concatenating the thread brings the interlocking of the threads on the front face of the fabric as shown in Fig. 1 and. thus produces the purl effect.

In forming the stitching the needle thrusts which carry the loops 6 through the fabric are so made that the needle will enter the goods on the face 14 at a point 8 which is a lesser distance from the buttonhole slit than the points 9 at which the needle emerges from the face 15 of the goods. With this arrangement the portion 10 of each loop 6 which is located within the body of the work 1 will extend at an angle to theplane of the work.

Of the double thread which constitutes the portion 10 of each stitch one ply or end 11 leads to one loop 5 and the other ply or end 12 leads to the next adjacent loop 5. As a result the only thread portions of the buttonhole stitching which are visible on the back face of the goods 1, which is the under side in Figs. 1 and 2, are the portions 13 which extend from the points 8 where the loops 6 hole slit.

Sincethe points 8 at which the needle thrusts enter the face 14 of the fabric are nearer to the buttonhole slit than the points 'of emergence 9 the width or bight of the stitching appearing on the back face 14 of the fabric will be less than that appearing on the front face 15. 1

The distance of the points 8 at which the loops 6 enter the face 14 of the work from The drawing shows a construction in which the loop portion 6 of each stitch enters the fabric from the under face 14 very close to the buttonhole slit so that there will be a very slight amount of thread visible on the under face 14 of the goods. In a buttonhole made in this way the front face of the fabric has the same appearance usually found on buttonholes made on a buttonhole sewing machine but at the back face ofthe goods or fabric a small amount of thread will be visible.

Where the buttonhole is made as herein from on one illustrated the small amount of thread indicated by the portions 13 which appears on the back face of the fabric serves to give a proper finish to the buttonhole in that they cover the edges of the goods at the sides of the buttonhole slit but the amount of thread which is visible on the back face of the fabric is not sufficient to produce an unsightly or unfinished appearance.

I claim.

1. A stitched buttonhole comprising a piece of goods with a buttonhole slit and a series of concatenated thread loops binding the edge of the buttonhole slit, certain of the loops passing through the slit and other loops passing through the work and emerging thereface thereof at a greater distance from the slit than on the other face thereof, the interlocking of the thread loops being on said first-named face. A

2. A stitched buttonhole in whichthe'buttonhole stitches are formed by the concatenating of loops in two threads, the alternate loops of one thread entering one face of the goods adjacent the buttonhole slit and passing through the goods and emerging from the other face at a greater distance from the buttonhole slit than the point of entrance, and the other loops of said thread passing from one face of the fabric to the other through the buttonhole slit and also passing through the first-named loops, the loops of the second thread passing through the loops occupying the slit of the buttonhole and being looped about the other loops of said other thread. enter the back side of the goods to the button- 3. A buttonhole stitched with interlocking thread loops wherein the width of the stitchmg transversely of the buttonhole is wider on one side of the material than on the other and the thread loops are interlocked on that side of the material on which the stitching is widest. I I

4. A buttonhole stitched with a plurality of threads whichare interlocked with each other, a portion of the thread forming each stitch entering the material on one face closely adjacent the buttonhole slit and extending through the material in an inclined direction to the entering face thereof and emerging from the other face at a considerable distance fromsaid slit, the interlocking of the threads occurring on said other face.

5. A stitched buttonhole wherein each stitch is formed with interlocking thread loops, a portion of the thread of each stitch enteringone face of the material at a point closely adjacent the buttonhole slit and extending through the material at an angle to said face and emerging fromthe other face at a considerable distance back from the slit. the interlocking of said loops occurring on said other face.

tion ofthe thread forming each stitch thereof 6. A stitched buttonhole in which a por enters the material on one face thereof at a point so closely adjacent the buttonhole slit that the thread of each stitch is'hardly visible on said face and extends through the material in a direction which inclines away from said slit and emerges from the other face of the fabric at a considerable distance back from the slit, the concatenation of the stitching appearing on said other face.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

JOSEPH PIKUL. 

